Designing with Soul; The Madame Hall Way
The Story Behind Madame Hall
Madame Hall, it's not just a brand…it stands proudly, stylishly, and distinctively for Lisa Hall's love for traditional Indian clothing textiles (Ajrakh, and Khadi cotton, to name a few), on which she gives her unique designer touch with added details of dramatic silhouettes.
Madame Hall is a by product of her admiration for artisans' skillful embroideries, and her very own influenced learnings from her past experiences, where she worked in theatres, indulging in creating dramatic, cultural themed costumes…right from her initial introduction to Indian designs when she worked on Peter Brooks' epic production of 'The Mahabharata', a highlight of the 1988 Adelaide Festival of Arts. From romantic fantasy Disney shows like 'Beauty and the Beast' to sci-fi mini series 'Farscape' and too many other shows to mention in between. Life in the theatre exposed her to the designs of different cultures and periods in time. It brought her a wealth of experience in historical pattern making techniques, decorative textile arts and dramatic flair. Which later she'd use to create designer dresses for women…yet better described as art to wear pieces! Introducing an unexpected element from her repertoire of craft practices, a playful design feature or a cultural fusion of ideas is what excites her. It's the essence of her design and style, and a visual signature the perceptive collector of Madame Hall pieces will recognise.
Inspirations That Shape the Craft
Although Madame Hall is deeply influenced by Lisa's personal experiences, alone the experiences aren't enough to create something that catches the eyes of the gazers, and leave them wanting to buy the pieces for themselves at first glance. It requires skills, designs, and most importantly, the techniques.
Lisa designs her pieces through the influenced lenses of fashion, the ones that come through the place of admiration. One such place of admiration of her craft comes from Ballet Russes designer Leon Bakst, for his culturally immersive, richly coloured costumes and hand detailing; by fashions of the 1920's when practical design gave many women freedom from constrictive attire. At that time simple silhouettes enhanced with pleats and drape, were evocative of the most ancient form of Indian couture. Historical pattern cutting, across many different cultures including India, were designed to utilise the width of cloth created on simple hand looms to maximum effect. 'Zero waste' was a practical consideration long before the term was coined. This technique is of great interest to her, with so many silhouettes to experiment with and explore. And that inspiration plays a crucial role in crafting Madame Hall's designs today. Each and every design is made for the women who love to explore and embrace their individual femininity, in the most fashionable, sustainable way. So, one always knows that what they're wearing comes from a place of craftsmanship and more!
The Signature Smocking Technique
One of these techniques that is now a prominent feature of Madame Hall's gorgeous designs has taken its birth from Lisa's reminiscing about a smocking device she had when she was working at Sydney Theatre Company, that was used to create multiple neat pleats in preparation for embroidery or other surface decoration. Lisa Hall's reminiscence brought her a frenzy of creating the textural effect for her designs, therefore, with the help of her wonderful colleagues Dipu, Sandeep and Raju, she perfected a system of ruching the fabric at regular intervals, and stabilising it on the reverse side. Once secure, they experimented layering with decorative hand guided machine embroidery. Every aspect of this was thoughtfully workshopped, from thread thickness, stitch length, colour and design. This creative process absorbed Lisa and her team for the best part of a week, but it was so worth the time and effort! Madame Hall now has a beautiful technique, completely unique to their version of smocking. Lisa loves it because it's reminiscent of the machine embroidery tribal women use to complete their costumes, but they've enhanced that idea further, for a technique that's particularly suited to Khadi cotton checks and stripes.
Handcrafted Pieces Rooted in Tradition
Madame Hall's pieces are handcrafted, and sewn to perfection to bring the wearer the satisfaction of buying something truly remarkable. Madame Hall loves the Ajrakh textile through and through. Ajrakh being the centuries old technique of hand block printing and resist dyeing, Lisa designs pieces that go particularly well with Ajrakh art, and it’s been found to be an enduring favourite! Using traditional crafts in unexpected ways to give a refreshingly new and eye-catching perspective to simple cotton dresses and tunics, so suited to the Indian climate, is one of the things that brings Lisa true creative satisfaction!
Colour blocking, patchwork and asymmetrical designs feature strongly in the Madame Hall collection. Madame Hall always endeavours to create visually satisfying clothes with a touch of excitement!
Fashion Designed with Soul
Apart from the techniques, textiles, and inspiration, Madame Hall's pieces are handmade dresses for women, designed with soul. Because every piece is made to make it yours, to provide comfortable ease as you wear them. The impeccable style, the details that you can't help but notice, and all the small things that make the pieces purely Madame Hall, are what the brand takes pride in delivering, with every single creation.
The dresses designed in Madame Hall's atelier are not created for the masses…Madame Hall’s dresses are for women of discernment. Women who love to express themselves by the way they dress. The dresses are not just something they wear, but an expression of personal confidence and appreciation of art to wear clothing. Clothing that enhances the wearer’s unique personality.
If you value slow fashion, and have an eye for something truly beautiful, Madame Hall will find its way to you. It will win your heart with artfully made designs, superb attention to detail and exquisite textiles. Certain to delight your inner fashionista!
The Spirit of Kutch and Artisan Collaboration
Admiration and respect for the remarkable creative talent surrounding Madame Hall, motivates Lisa to design new pieces daily. Breathing new life and vitality into the craft traditions of Kutch, designed to make the Madame Hall difference!
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the starting point for a new design?
Ans: Inspiration often hits in the morning, mostly. Usually, Lisa comes across a textile, and then all the pieces begin to make sense, and the design just comes right through.
2. I have a very special event to attend, will you design something unique especially for me?
Yes! There is a collection of vintage and antique embroideries kept aside for one of a kind designs and special projects. Lisa can show you embroidery options, and suitable fabrics to coordinate with, to create something really special, just for you!
3. You only design small batch ranges or One of a Kind pieces, Why?
Materials are bought directly from artisans in Kutch. Their experimental pieces often excite Lisa the most! Block printing tables are only around 8 meters long, so often only small meterage is available and it's possible to make just 3-4 items. Ajrakh block printing is a very organic process. The amount and type of sunlight, the water quality and a particular printer's hand all influence the final result. Often there's a particular nuance of a piece of cloth that attracts her. That special something can't always be repeated. For this reason, fabrics are rarely ordered, with a preference to choose from what is available. Lisa also loves designing with vintage embroideries. Embroideries made only for personal use carry heritage, culture and tradition. The energy they have aligns with Madame Hall's own, to create beautiful clothes with soul and intention!
4. How do you manage your business and its logistics?
Lisa works very closely with her favourite Kutch artisans and the Madame Hall team, with direct daily involvement in every piece they make. Living in Bhuj gives her the opportunity to buy the best textiles and rare embroideries the minute they're available. The embroidery ladies, Ami, Viliyat and Meruna are seen on a weekly basis, and the block printers are visited several times a month. Being involved with the entire process and communicating ideas directly with the artisans is what makes the Madame Hall difference....This is why Lisa loves living in the small, but craft rich community of Bhuj!
5. Do you only work with Ajrakh fabrics?
Lisa works with Ajrakh and Khadi cotton mostly, these are the textiles that are largely available in Kutch. Working with heritage textiles, and moulding them with her creative vision to create something entirely new yet close to culture, gives her true satisfaction.
6. How should I care for my Madame Hall pieces?
All textiles used by Madame Hall are 100% natural, handwoven cotton and Ajrakh fabrics crafted with natural dyes by master artisans like Sufiyan and Adam Khatri. To preserve their colour and texture, wash gently in cool water with mild detergent and let them air-dry in the shade. Minor variations in print and hue are not defects, they reflect the handmade craft and character of each piece.